Lake City

Nestled among picturesque hills, Nainital is strewn with scenic splendours from nature's bounty. 

Nainital is named after the Naini lake which, according to folklore, is one of 64 places where parts of Sati's charred body fell while she was being carried by Lord Shiva. It is believed that her eyes fell here, causing the formation of the eye-shaped Naini lake. Another legend narrates that the three sages, Atri, Pulastya and Pulaha, found the region devoid of water and dug out a lake and filled it with water from the holy Manasarovar lake in Tibet. The most fascinating aspect of Nainital, for me, is that it is also the birthplace of renowned hunter turned conservationist Jim Corbett who authored enthralling books such as The Maneaters of Kumaon. 

Our mission is to drive to Nainital from Delhi in the Hyundai Santa Fe - a 280km trip, traversing Uttar Pradesh and ascending the hills of Uttarakhand. The route should offer enough scope to gauge the premium SUV's mile-munching abilities and even test it out on hilly terrain. 

We are an hour behind schedule at the start due to unforeseen circumstances. However, the positive fallout was that traffic was sparse in the afternoon and we were quickly beyond the bustle and in the UP hinterlands, and instead of habitation, the highway was lined with lush green tree-lined meadows. The roads were straight for the most part but the surface was rough and potholed in some stretches, that the big Santa Fe made light work of. Our fellow road users seemed unaware or oblivious to which side of the road to use, as our lane was frequently encroached on by oncoming bullock carts, motorcycles, cars and trucks. Except for these unwanted obstructions, the cruise in the Santa Fe is brisk and enjoyable. With its 199cc 194bhp common-rail engine generating a steroidal 436Nm of torque, this is a vehicle that devours distances with admirable alacrity. The six-speed H-matic transmission facilitates seamless shifts that take the sting out of traffic snarls of the kind we happen upon in Moradabad. 

Past Moradabad, the road is a single carriageway that winds through forests populated by tall trees, a scenic stretch. We have the road almost to ourselves, barring the odd vehicle, so our progress is reasonably high click, but we have to keep an eye out for stray cattle. As we reach Nainital road, the hills are visible in the distance, catching the light of a setting sun. By the time we reach the foothills, the dark is setting in. On the ascent, fog starts to roll in, but the Santa Fe's Xenon headlamps scythe through the misty veil, so that our progress is unhindered. Before we know it, we reach our destination, a heritage resort in the heart of Nainital. 

Up early the next day, our first destination is Nainital lake and its pristine waters, the heart of this bustling town. Founded in 1841 by a British sugar trader by the name of P Baron, Nainital is now self sufficient in every aspect. Mall Road that runs parallel to the lake is busy as is the lake front abuzz with touristy throngs. In fair weather, the lake also offers water sports. The vicinity of the lake is a plastic-free zone and the locals ensure it remains litter-free. Thanks to aeration, Nainital lake is now teeming with carp and spools of this freshwater fish can be clearly seen from the bank.  Nainital lake is a shining example of how a fragile ecosystem can be revived and preserved with due and diligent procedures. We walk down Thandi Road and on to a walkway alongside the lake, a most serene and peaceful experience in the cradle of nature. 

Back in the Santa Fe, we squeeze through narrow alleys that take us to Gurney House, erstwhile home of Jim Corbett. Nestled in the verdant foothills of the Kumaon range, the cosy cottage overlooks a small garden. Acquired by one Sharda Prasad, it is now owned and preserved by his grand-daughter Nilanjana Dalmia. We were privileged enough to get a guided tour of the cottage that is a treasure house of Jim Corbett's belongings. With its colonial charm, the inside of the cottage is a step back in time and into the pages of history. It's a must-visit for every Corbett admirer. Nanital has lots more to offer and we tear ourselves away from the Corbett haunt. 

The drive up to Kilbury Road for a glimpse of the Himalayas, however, proves to be a no-show as shroud of cloud has hidden the peaks from our view. The drive in the Santa Fe is as pleasant and rewarding as can be. On the descent, we stop to ask for directions. Moments later, I hear a faint drumming sound on the roof followed by a loud crash. To my amazement, I see a big langur jump off the Santa Fe's roof, and scamper off into the trees. I check the roof for damage but thankfully there's no trace of the monkey's antics on the Santa Fe's sturdy, ribbed roof. Scenic views abound in Nainital, such as Dorothy's Seat and the aerial ropeway. A trudge on foot up to the Naini peak is more than worth it for the spectacular view of the snow-capped Himalayas on one side and a panoramic view of Nainital on the other. The highlight of Nainital zoo is the snow leopard.  

As we leave Nainital via Mall Road, we spy an ancient structure almost hidden from view. Our curiosity piqued, we stop and go exploring. Going up a stairway, we come upon an 18th century church. Named after St Francis, it's also known as the lake church. The unlit interiors reveal a stained glass window behind the altar, aglow with the soft rays of the morning sun streaming in. We drive towards Delhi past Bhimtal Lake. It is late evening when we reach the plains. The big Hyundai dispatches tarmac with an imposing calm and sure-footed style while on the inside we are cocooned in a seemingly impregnable sense of security. We reach Delhi late at night. Just a few hours away from Delhi, Nainital is an ideal weekend getaway, with a range of leisure pleasures on offer. And the Hyundai Santa Fe is a vehicle that makes getting to such a destination as smooth, comfortable and effortless a drive as can be. 

Words : Benjamin Gracias