Live Un-Compromise

Mumbai-based Girish Salian - restaurateur, social worker and a Hyundai owner - on keeping up with the times, spreading cheer and his drive

The Fort district, in Mumbai, is famed for its wide variety of restaurants. The claustrophobically narrow lanes are home to many of Mumbai's iconic restaurants, and, especially Manglorean eateries, which were set up by Kannadigas in the late 1960s and '70s.

Among them is a no-frills restaurant called Harish Lunch Home. Every day, at lunch hour, office goers sit shoulder to shoulder on its benches and foodies swear by its Lady Fish and Lape fry, Kori Roti, and, among others, Bangda Curry. Watching the steady stream of customers - and there are as many who come in the evening for beer and dinner - you'd think it has always been smooth sailing for the restaurant, and that its owner can simply sit back and rake in the money forever and ever. But Girish Salian, who owns the eatery as well as nearby Harish Refreshment and a much larger establishment called Tanish Residency, near Taloja, on the outskirts of Mumbai, hardly the person to do that. In fact, he knows very well he can't afford to. Salian, 54, is a practical man, and is familiar with the pitfalls of complacency. About a decade after Salian took charge of the restaurants from father, who set them up, he realised that the restaurant business was changing very rapidly.

"Fort was no longer the hub of business in Mumbai, or the only place for offices. People were moving elsewhere. Plus, tastes were changing rapidly; health-consciousness was gaining ground. Thalis, which drove our business, were losing traction. In the early 80s, we used to sell as many as 300 thalis during lunch every day, that number was more than halved in the 1990s," says Salian, who owns a Hyundai i20. "Even if you have been around for decades, it's never easy in the restaurant business."

Salian, who has been associated with the India Hotels and Restaurant Association as joint secretary and treasurer, could have simply capitulated to changing times, and reflected on the glories of his restaurants in his old age. But, he swung into action after studying the changing dynamics of the market, and applied the lessons he learnt to his decades-old business quickly. "I didn't completely do away with the thali. But, I realised that you have to focus on a la carte more. Offer options, and that I learnt from McDonald's, as well as streamlining operations. And, we learnt to cater to each individual's preferences and dislikes, rather than do a sort of one size fits all thing which had worked earlier." For his vegetarian restaurant, Salian also procured a beer license. The strategy worked, and Harish Lunch Home is full at lunch hour and dinner most days, even though Fort is a shadow of what it once was. And, to attract newer, younger customers, Salian also organizes food festivals every couple of months. "When I first entered the business, we had never heard of food festivals. But one has to move with the times."

When Salian set out to buy a biggish premium hatchback over five years ago, he applied the same logic to his car-buying decision as he has to professional matters. "It had to look premium, have enough space, features, and, most importantly, deliver good fuel efficiency. I think it fit the bill for me and my son, who uses it more than I do, and who it was intended for." What does he think of the new i20 Elite? Salian likes it. He is surprised that the premium hatchback comes with a Start button, and thinks that it's a very feel-good thing to have in the car. He bought the previous generation i20, because he wanted to have a car for the city. "I drive to Navi Mumbai often, and I happen to stop at various places along the way, so I needed a car that could be parked anywhere without any problem, and yet was big and stable enough on the highway." The new i20 Elite, he thinks, is a tempting prospect. "It's smoother, more refined and there's a lot more space inside," he says, as he drives it around town. Salian says that the new i20s interiors are loaded with features, but, as importantly, he is happy that the interior design is tasteful. "I find a lot of cars too flashy from the inside, but this one is subtle, and, yet, offers you nearly everything you'd want." Salian likes his cars to look sharp, and the new, edgy design of the i20 Elite finds favour with him. "It looks young, my son would love it. He's the one who drives our i20 more than I do."

The other things Salian notices is the sprightly nature of the Elite i20, the smooth power delivery of its 1200cc, 82bhp engine, and the soft, cushioned seats. Does he feel like replacing his old i20 with the Elite? Salian thinks for a while. "It is a very interesting car. If I buy this one, I'll stop driving my sedan. But who knows? Maybe" he says.

Salian is not just a successful restaurateur, he is also a driving force behind his community's efforts to help the less privileged among them. "I always think that your community is important for you to succeed. They are your people, it's like a large family. Connections are made, help is rendered and accepted, one things leads to another. In today's fast-paced world, where people don't even know who their neighbours are, it only makes sense to stick together. Together, we can help ourselves and many others." Salian's leadership has seen the Kulalas, who hail mostly from the Tulu-speaking part of Karnataka, set up community centres, donated funds to help with education of children, encouraged and facilitated adoption of orphans and is now working to set up a Kulala Bhavan, in Mangalore.

Published By: Top Gear